
Few things are as romantic as sharing a cheese plate. You pour some wine, light some candles, and let the nibbling begin. For Valentine’s Day, a lot of people get hung up on symbolism, but what means more: a box of box of heart-shaped chocolates or a selection of cheeses that have been around for centuries?

If you love cheese, you probably know about the recent crackdowns on two prominent raw milk dairies in Washington state. I’ve been reading a lot about food policy this week, so I treated myself to a side-by-side tasting of two British blues – one made from raw milk, the other pasteurized. Meet Stichelton and Colston [...]

If you’re a cheddar lover, this is your must-try cheese for 2011. Montgomery’s Cheddar isn’t just an award-winning wedge, it’s a cheese with groupies. Di Bruno’s cheesemonger Ezekial Ferguson loves Montgomery’s so much, he tattooed the label on his shin.

Okay, I made that up. Nobody really calls Gorgonzola Dolce “the kissing cheese,” but they should because it’s mild and it goes with bubbly. Perfect for New Years. Lord knows you don’t want Stilton breath or Roquefort breath, unless your partner is a salty dog…in which case, rock and roll.

The colder the weather, the stronger the cheese – that’s always been the rule in our house. After the first freeze, I start dreaming of Raclette. That’s probably because I grew up with a Swiss mother who was famous for her melted cheese dishes, and the minute she saw some sleet on the ground she pulled out the fondu pot or plugged in her Raclette machine. Those Alpine types know how to stay warm.

If you love big, fruity wines, chances are you’ll fall chin-over-stilettos for Comté. It’s a big fruity cheese, and it pairs well with everything this time of year – nuts, sherry, even fruitcake.

I have a little thing for goat cheeses rolled in ash. I find them arresting, like Edward Steichen photos. Black against white, grainy against creamy – I revel in the contrasts.

Years at Di Bruno Bros.: 4 Hometown: Metuchen, New Jersey How he got into cheese: I’m a carpenter by trade, but I’ve always sidelined in food -- I’ve worked as a fishmonger, a bartender. In early 2007, I walked into Di Bruno Bros. one day, and I haven’t left since. I like that there’s a vast amount of knowledge to master, kind of like working in historic restoration.

I can still remember the first time I tried Époisses – it was at a party three years ago, and when it appeared on the table a hush fell over the kitchen. “Who brought the Époisses?” someone whispered. It was as if a tiger had entered the room.

If you’re a fan of Taleggio, chances are you’ll have a mini meltdown when you try Anton’s Red Love. This bloomy rind cheese from Bavaria is pudgy and fudgy with a yeasty taste that calls to mind fresh baked bread or, better yet, a bismarck.