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  • Madame Fromage

    Thu|May

    19

    By Madame Fromage

    Pantaleo: A Rare Aged Goat for Summertime

    Pantaleo Rare Aged Goat Cheese

    Back in April, a friend gave me a bag of lemons from her family tree in Florida, and their bright floral bite sent me on a citrus binge. That’s how I came to Pantaleo, a firm Sardinian goat cheese that smells like lemon yogurt and tastes – in its youth – as delicate as the Madaleines that sent Proust into literary reverie.

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  • Madame Fromage

    Wed|May

    04

    By Madame Fromage

    Paški Sir and Spring Vegetables

    Paksi Sir Cheese

    If you’re the kind of person who likes to traffic in obscure cheese, you’ll want to add Paški Sir to your list. It looks like an aged Parm with a thick, honey-colored rind and flecks of protein crystals, but the smell and taste are nuttier and brighter, with hints of melon, spruce, and citrus.

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  • Madame Fromage

    Thu|Apr

    21

    By Madame Fromage

    Ewephoria: Sweetest of the Sheep Cheeses

    Most people who enter into a relationship with sheep’s cheese expect a robust, salty hunk – think of your Pecorinos from Sardinia, your Manchegos from La Mancha. These hard, earthy cheeses can be addictive, but they often require a sweet sidekick, like honey or quince paste, to offset their briny temperaments.

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  • Madame Fromage

    Wed|Apr

    06

    By Madame Fromage

    How to Serve Selles-sur-Cher

    Selles-sur-Cher

    Few things are as lovely as a young goat cheese from the Loire Valley. It is versatile and light, like a new spring coat, and when paired with preserves or a glass of Sancerre, it becomes ethereal, musical – think “Umbrellas of Cherbourg.”

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  • Madame Fromage

    Wed|Mar

    23

    By Madame Fromage

    Cremifacto: A Blue for Winter’s End

    verde

    I know a man who buys two blue cheeses a week and eats them for dinner. No, he's not my boyfriend -- he's my muse. When I have a humdrum day, I often think of the cheese boards I have eaten at his house, and then I perk up like daisy.

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  • Madame Fromage

    Wed|Mar

    09

    By Madame Fromage

    Cheesemonger Dan Black

    IMG_2513

    Hometown: Philadelphia (Frankford neighborhood) Years at Di Bruno Bros.: 3+ His job: I specialize in aging flurry rind goat cheeses – Selles-sur-Cher, Saint Maure, Crottin de Chavignol. They require constant air and constant moisture – you’ve got to keep an eye on them or they’ll go under.

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  • Madame Fromage

    Wed|Feb

    23

    By Madame Fromage

    Ginepro: Cheese and…gin?

    Ginepro

    As much as I like beer and wine, I am a cocktail person. I have a thing for fizzes and rickeys. Don’t hold it against me. If I had the choice between a gin’n tonic or a big smiley Cab, I’d go for the gin – there, now I’ve come clean. Can we move on?

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  • Madame Fromage

    Wed|Feb

    09

    By Madame Fromage

    A Cheese Plate for Lovers

    cheese_plate_020911

    Few things are as romantic as sharing a cheese plate. You pour some wine, light some candles, and let the nibbling begin. For Valentine’s Day, a lot of people get hung up on symbolism, but what means more: a box of box of heart-shaped chocolates or a selection of cheeses that have been around for centuries?

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  • Madame Fromage

    Wed|Jan

    26

    By Madame Fromage

    Raw vs. Pasteurized: Stilton vs. Stichelton

    Stilton vs. Stichelton

    If you love cheese, you probably know about the recent crackdowns on two prominent raw milk dairies in Washington state. I’ve been reading a lot about food policy this week, so I treated myself to a side-by-side tasting of two British blues – one made from raw milk, the other pasteurized. Meet Stichelton and Colston [...]

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  • Madame Fromage

    Wed|Jan

    12

    By Madame Fromage

    Deconstructing Montgomery’s Cheddar

    Montgomerys_Cheddar

    If you’re a cheddar lover, this is your must-try cheese for 2011. Montgomery’s Cheddar isn’t just an award-winning wedge, it’s a cheese with groupies. Di Bruno’s cheesemonger Ezekial Ferguson loves Montgomery’s so much, he tattooed the label on his shin.

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