On the first sticky day of summer, I walked down to Philadelphia’s Italian Market in search of something cool, and I came home with burrata. Cheese and humidity don’t always mix, but then, burrata isn’t ordinary cheese. It’s a fresh mozzarella compress wrapped around a scoop of glorious cream and bound together with leeks.
As the weather gets hotter many cheese lovers take a respite from the meaty, hearty cheeses that so many of us enjoy in colder weather. If a savory piece of Stilton or a pungent, runny little Epoisses doesn't seem like your sort of thing on a muggy 80 degree day I can think of no better place to turn than the wide world of Goat's milk cheeses. Their cleaner, brighter flavors might be just the thing to refresh your palette on a summer day and they tend to work wonderfully with summery wines such as Vinho Verde and Rose.
The day began with a trip to the Fruitiere a Comte de Gellin. A fruitiere is where the cheese is produced before it is transferred to an affineur for maturation. Being in peak season, this particular fruitiere is making eight wheels of Comte per day, approximately 550 pounds.
I am sitting across from the Hertz kiosk at the Geneva airport, propping myself up on my luggage. In the past 30 hours, I have not slept or changed clothes, and exhaustion is forcing its inevitability on me. But as weary as I feel, the excitement of this trip offers constant rejuvenation.
Back in April, a friend gave me a bag of lemons from her family tree in Florida, and their bright floral bite sent me on a citrus binge. That’s how I came to Pantaleo, a firm Sardinian goat cheese that smells like lemon yogurt and tastes – in its youth – as delicate as the Madaleines that sent Proust into literary reverie.
I hope you have already eaten. If not, pull up a chair. Grab a napkin. You just might drool. This is the story of a fermentation dinner in celebration of two Philadelphia-area food artisans -- a cheesemaking pioneer named Sue, and a brewer savant named Jean. I want you to meet them.
With the Spring season in full swing, we began a quest for a new recipe – one for a spring salad with goat cheese specifically, because we’d been looking forward to springtime for just that reason. And as the weather grows warmer, we tend to lean away from the balsamic in our pantry and find ourselves reaching more often for its lighter cousin, red wine vinegar, and we wanted a recipe that would bring it all together.
If you’re the kind of person who likes to traffic in obscure cheese, you’ll want to add Paški Sir to your list. It looks like an aged Parm with a thick, honey-colored rind and flecks of protein crystals, but the smell and taste are nuttier and brighter, with hints of melon, spruce, and citrus.
The Basque region occupies parts of France and Spain. However, to the people who occupy this region, its neither France nor Spain...It's different...It's Basque Country (Euskadi). When driving into the region the evidence becomes very prevalent.